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Keeping it real!

As was widely tipped, and greatly expected, we have a new government to lead us through the next five years. Well, I’m not a political commentator, and I wouldn’t claim to be an expert on the subject, but I am happy to live in a country where we can value our freedom and enjoy the principles of democracy. After weeks of canvassing, arguing and general ballyhoo, I was greatly encouraged to see the opening parliamentary speeches as the reds moved to the speakers right, and the blues to the left. In my opinion, Rishi Sunak spoke with grace and generosity as he handed over the baton. However, I was most struck by his heartfelt, and kind, words for, and to, Diane Abbot. Whilst making it clear that they obviously do not share the same views and political opinions, he was able to appreciate her many years in Parliament, and her distinguished leadership of the Borough of Hackney. In fact, Rishi was warm in his praise of her becoming the ‘mother of the house’. In listening to the speech, and considering Diane Abbots dedication to her beliefs, and her willingness to stand by them at all costs, I couldn’t help but see parallels within our own business. At Meat London we have a clear vision of what we want to do, how we want to do it and how we will achieve our goals. We know what we expect from our producers and suppliers, and we know what we want to deliver to our customers. For many reasons, recent years have made life quite difficult for everyone and it has not always been easy to maintain the aims and standards that we set ourselves. However, dropping the standards and taking shortcuts is not our option. Certainly since the Covid pandemic, we have often had to dig in and remain determined not to let our standards slip. We want to be able to produce and sell the best products, to the highest standards, and, of course, we have to be able to maintain a price level that is fair and affordable, while ensuring that we keep the business sustainable, including rewarding the team adequately. It’s an interesting balance.

Quick trip around the markets

Beef prices have been very stable throughout 2024. At this time of year, it is not unusual for beef to become a little short. However, the lack of beef has not affected the quality, or driven too many price rises. As a commodity, of course, the winter cuts (Shin, Oxtail, Brisket) drop in price and the Steaks and BBQ cuts (Sirloin, Rump, Rib Eye, Fillet) rise. It is always a fact, that in any economical downturn, people find ever more inventive ways to use less expensive cuts. Onglet (Hanger Steak), Bavette, Short Ribs and Ox Cheek all lend themselves to delicious BBQ recipes.

Lamb has remained stubbornly expensive this year. I’m told that the price is driven by the livestock markets, but it doesn’t seem logical. I’m one step detached from the auction sheds, so I have to believe what Paddy tells me. It’s been a struggle but I am told that the price will come down in the near future. In the summer, we tend to move from Leg of Lamb for roasting, to ‘Butterflied’ legs, big enough to feed a large family relatively economically. Loin Chops from the saddle, and Shoulders, either boneless for the spit, or whole in the Dutch Oven, are summer favourites. One of my own favourites is the ‘Rump’ of Lamb. It’s at the top of the leg, and at circa 450g – 550g, is big enough for two, either roasted or on the BBQ. The price of Lamb Racks at this time of year is frightening, driven by the demand from restaurant chefs. At Meat London we hold a steady price, but Racks and Cutlets certainly don’t add much to our profits.

Pork, as well as being the most versatile in the butcher’s shop, and always readily available, is also the most stable, price wise. Pork farmers sometimes add a little once or twice a year, but it would usually be in line with domestic inflation, or outside factors. A good pig is endlessly useable. Sunday Roast, with crisp crackling, from the legs or loins, Pulled Pork from the neck and shoulder or Belly Steaks on the BBQ. And, of course all or any part of the pig makes fantastic sausages, bacon and hams.

The Poultry farms and markets are calm. Like everything else, prices jumped considerably through 2023, but this year has not been so difficult. Summer doesn’t over excite the poultry farmers. The Game season will start in the middle of August and minds will be turning to Turkeys and Geese by the time the kids are back in school. We always have plenty of poultry of varying styles. The most economical buy is probably a good sized chicken that can be used for more than one meal. Back to our inventive cooks.

It all looks quite simple when written down. It makes me wonder what I do all day !!

As mentioned above, the Glorious 12th August brings the start of the Game Season, with Grouse arriving soon after first light. We wouldn’t usually chase first day Grouse at Meat London, as they are so expensive and, without the aid of a helicopter, they wouldn’t arrive in London until late in the day. I will revisit Game, and remind you again. However, if you have never considered wild birds or venison as an alternative, maybe 2024 is the year to think about it.

The summer holidays always act as a natural mid-way break in our year, and it gives us time to think about what we will do next. So, we wish all of our customers a very peaceful summer, and we hope everybody enjoys their holidays. I can assure you that we are already thinking about the second half of the year, and we look forward to offering our customers more of the same, plus many new products and promotions.

Have a great August.

Cherry Cola Beef Short Ribs


Liberally cover the Short Ribs with the Cherry Cola rub and leave to marinade overnight.

Using 1/3 of a Chimney Starter (around 8 briquettes), get the BBQ to 140˚. Set the BBQ for indirect cooking, with lit briquettes to one side of the BBQ and add the wood chunks. Smoke penetrates meat when it’s raw. Once a layer of cooked meat forms on the outside, smoking has little effect.
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Lamb Saddle with Caramelised Baby Onions and White Wine Jus

Lamb Saddle

I make no secret of the fact that this is one of my favourite cuts. The saddle is from the middle of the animal and is all soft, tender meat. Rolled properly, it looks so elegant and is a real winner for any dinner party. Adding the soft, sweet baby onions on the side is a bit like putting a silk hanky in your pocket before you leave the house. An unassuming touch of decadence.
 
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Beef Wellington



With Christmas upon us, I am proposing the always decadent Beef Wellington. ‘Celebrity’ Chefs, and all those weekend glossy mags, will tell you that only a ‘Centre Cut’ Beef Fillet will do the job. That’s all very well if you are running a smart restaurant, and you want every piece to look the same, but the Rump Fillet, Chateaubriand, has all the flavour, is just as tender and will save a few pennies. It’s my cut of choice. As with all good things, your Beef Wellington will need a little investment of money and time, but, as it sets off your festive table, you will decide it is worth the effort. (BTW; this is the Christmas treat destined for my table this year).
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